Battery Backup Sizing Calculator
How much storage your outage actually needs
Add up the loads you genuinely need to keep running, choose how long you need them, and get the usable and nameplate battery capacity plus the continuous inverter rating to look for.
Loads to keep running
Only the things you genuinely need during an outage. Every extra load buys you fewer hours.
| On | Load | Watts | Hours / day | kWh / day |
|---|
The numbers
- Daily consumption
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- Net of solar recharge
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- Energy over the outage
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- Usable capacity needed
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- Peak draw if everything runs at once
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- Runtime of a single 13.5 kWh unit
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Roughly this many units
- Tesla Powerwall 3 — 13.5 kWh
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- Enphase IQ 5P — 5.0 kWh
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- Generic rack module — 10 kWh
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Capacities are the published nameplate figures for comparison only. Nothing on this page is a recommendation of a particular product, and we receive nothing if you buy one.
Show the working
How this is calculated
Every assumption is listed so you can disagree with it. If a figure here is wrong, tell us and we will fix it.
The model
Each load contributes its power multiplied by the hours it actually runs. For anything thermostatically controlled — a fridge, a freezer, a well pump — the hours figure is the compressor's run time, not the number of hours it is plugged in. A fridge is plugged in for 24 hours and runs for about 8.
daily kWh = Σ (watts × hours) / 1000 net daily = daily kWh − solar recharge usable kWh = net daily × days × (1 + margin) / efficiency nameplate = usable kWh / depth of discharge
Two separate derations are at work and they are often confused. Depth of discharge is how much of the nameplate the chemistry will let you take out — roughly 90% for LFP, less for older NMC packs. Round-trip efficiency is what is lost to conversion and heat on the way in and out. Both have to be applied, which is why a "13.5 kWh" battery does not deliver 13.5 kWh of useful work.
Energy is not the only constraint
A battery has two independent limits: how much energy it stores, and how much power it can deliver at any instant. A system with plenty of kWh will still trip if you start a well pump and an air conditioner together. The continuous inverter rating shown here covers everything running simultaneously, with headroom — but motor loads draw several times their running wattage for the first second or two, so check the surge rating separately against your largest motor.
Typical running wattages
The presets are mid-range figures for common equipment. Your own appliances carry a nameplate label, and a $30 plug-in meter will tell you the truth about the ones that matter. Two loads dominate almost every real backup plan: electric resistance heat and central air conditioning. If either is on your list, that decision alone sets the size of the system.
What this leaves out
No cold-weather capacity loss (lithium delivers meaningfully less below freezing unless the pack is heated), no standby draw from the inverter itself, and no degradation over the battery's life — budget for roughly 70% of nameplate after ten years. Nor does it model partial outages, load shedding, or a generator running in parallel.
Sources
The constants and default values above come from these public sources. Every one is free to read and none of them are ours — check the figures against them.
- DOE — Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use The method behind the watts-times-hours load table, and typical wattages for common appliances.
- NREL — Behind-the-Meter Storage Research Round-trip efficiency and degradation figures for residential lithium systems.
- EIA — Residential Energy Consumption Survey Baseline household consumption, useful for sanity-checking your own load total.
- ENERGY STAR — Appliance Product Finder Nameplate power draw for specific models, better than any generic preset.
Built by Vano Gelashvili
Vano Gelashvili is a software developer who builds the calculators on this site. He is not an HVAC engineer, and says so on every page: what he brings is the arithmetic, worked openly against published data.